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Givenchy: Medicis in Morocco

PARIS: You cannot fault Riccardo Tisci for consistency. Eleven days after staging a North African inspired menswear show, the couturier re-visited the region again in a stellar Givenchy haute couture show in Paris on Tuesday, July 7. But where his men's collection was Marrakech dude meets Parisian dandy, his couture crossroads was more Catherine de...

SAMAA | - Posted: Jul 14, 2009 | Last Updated: 12 years ago
SAMAA |
Posted: Jul 14, 2009 | Last Updated: 12 years ago

PARIS: You cannot fault Riccardo Tisci for consistency. Eleven days after staging a North African inspired menswear show, the couturier re-visited the region again in a stellar Givenchy haute couture show in Paris on Tuesday, July 7.

But where his men's collection was Marrakech dude meets Parisian dandy, his couture crossroads was more Catherine de Medici visits the Atlas Mountains.

This was an air of modern day princess about most of the looks in this show, a mere 22 outfits, each of given Berber or Moorish female names.

From a wonderful opening corset-coat worn with tight pants to the final warrior princess bride, there was not one sour note in this fall 2009 collection, the latest affirmation of Tisci's talent.

“Morocco, again. I know. But when I have an obsession, it's an obsession!” laughed Tisci backstage as a mob waited to compliment him. Staged in a covered market in south Paris, the show attracted fellow designers Peter Dundas and Christian Lacroix, who was fresh from staging what might be his final collection now that his house is in the French equivalent of bankruptcy protection.

Tisci even played around with the chador, though his were made of gold sequins and showed most of the face, except forehead, cheekbones and nose.

Parts of this show featured armor plated chic, with breastplates and multiple wristbands stacked up nearly to the shoulder, in gold, silver and flesh-colored plastics and metals.

The Italian couturier is also an exuberant tailor, with innovative peplum hems, huge tongues of fabric and outrageously flowing drop crotch pants. His Givenchy collections are rarely easy to wear, but for those with the figure and self-assurance to put them on, his clothes make wonderful fashion statements.

Designs were made in various hues of anthracite, off white and faded rose, fitted out with medallions and military regalia, worn by a sublime casting and presented on a clever rectangular gray beam catwalk. AGENCIES

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